Handcraft Gemstone and Karated Gold Jewelry

Easy DIY Instructions to Make a 14K Gold Back-Set Bracelet

© Maire Loughran

Oct 10, 2008
Close Up - With Gemstones, maire loughran
Use this back-set bracelet and gemstones of choice to quickly and easily create a beautiful piece of jewelry.

It is always nice to be able to combine colored gemstones in exactly the way the wearer prefers. Maybe a specific garment needs to be matched for a special occasion. Perhaps children's birthstones will be used for a mother's day bracelet. It is also possible to spell out a message using the first letter of the gemstone.

Whatever the reason, using a back-set bracelet and the correct size gemstones makes this an easy, beginner jewelry project that shouldn't take more than 1/2 hour to complete.

Supplies for the Gemstone Back-Set Bracelet:

  • Rio Grande Item #645-115 14K yellow gold back-set bracelet. It has a setting for eighteen 6 x 4 oval gemstones. The price of this back-set bracelet has almost doubled in the last year. Market price at the date of publishing is $167.96. If 14K gold is currently out of a reasonable price range, Rio Grande sells sterling silver back-set bracelets.
  • Eighteen 6x4MM gemstones.
  • Prong closing pliers

To cut costs for this project, imitation emerald and white spinel are used. Since the size of each individual gemstone is so small, only a gemologist can tell if the gemstones are nature or faux. Using real emeralds and diamonds for this bracelet would have put the total cost well over $4,000.

The faux gemstones are available online at Fire Mountain Gems. At the date of publication, the total cost of this project's stones is under $25.

Make sure proper prong setting pliers are used. Each back-set has four prongs set in a very tight fitting arrangement. It's slightly maddening at first to place the gemstone and close the prongs, after the first two back-sets the rest fall in line.

Also, try to make the prong sit correctly the first time. These prongs are quite delicate. Too much bending back and forth and it will snap off. If this happens, no worries. Get the gemstone seated using the other three prongs and use some clear jeweler's cement to anchor the remaining corner in place.

It's recommended this be done using some sort of magnification system such as goggles. Have great, young eyes? This can probably be done without magnification.

Steps to Make the Back-Set Bracelet:

  1. Decide the exact order of gemstones. If using one gemstone for each back-set, skip to instruction 2.
  2. Place the gemstone in the back-set so the flat area of the gemstone is facing the good side of the bracelet.
  3. Using the prong closing pliers, tighten the back-set prongs over the gemstone. Work as if tightening the lug nuts on a tire. Start at one corner and tighten. Move to the opposite corner and tighten. Then tighten the remaining two prongs.
  4. Move systematically through the remaining seventeen back-sets repeating instructions two and three.

The copyright of the article Handcraft Gemstone and Karated Gold Jewelry in Beadwork/Jewelry Making is owned by Maire Loughran. Permission to republish Handcraft Gemstone and Karated Gold Jewelry in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.


Back-Set Bracelet, maire loughran
Close Up - Empty, maire loughran
Close Up - With Gemstones, maire loughran
   


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